Our Isovibe SX is a must for a race like Cain’s Quest.  The Isovibe isolates your bars from vibration and also absorbs the shock from taking big hits.  You will be able to ride harder longer with an Isovibe.  I rode this Etec for 50 miles before installing the Isovibe SX and could feel a big difference riding it after.  Without it you feel the vibration in the bars and every little bump that you hit and the feedback thru the bars.  Once installed it takes alot of the little gars from bumps away, definately smoother too.  It’s hard to explain but once you have ridden a sled with an Isovibe you won’t want to ride without one.

To install the Isovibe SX on an XP you need to disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle block and also you need to disconnect the two wires that go under the console to the gauge.  I pulled the gauge out using a small flat screw driver to release the two tabs holding it in at the top.  It’s really easy to do, you will see the two small slots at the top of the gauge.  Once you have the gauge out trace the two wires back that go thru your riser block and disconnect them.  Then fish them out thru the slot in the console.  Pull the small plug thru first to make it easier to get the larger one thru. 

Remove the four bolts with a 10mm wrench that attach the lower clamps to the riser.  Lay the riser down flat as shown the the picture below. 

Bolt the bottom Isovibe bracket to the bottom of your riser using the supplied bolts.  The picture shows the bracket mounted in the low position.  This will raise your bars by 1.5″.  Flip the bottom bracket over and mount it to the riser if you want to raise your bars by 2.5″.  Note: in the high position use the supplied allen head bolts. 

Reassemble the Isovibe referring to the directions making sure the shims are in the correct location.  Also make sure to feed the two wires thru the Isovibe as shown in the picture below. 

Now using your stock clamp halves bolt the Isovibe to the T bar steering post in the desired position.  Make sure the throttle cable isn’t routed thru the riser like it was stock.  It will need to be routed to the outside as shown in the picture below. 

The picture below shows how the two wires need to be routed coming thru the riser and Isovibe.  Now you can fish the two wires back under the console, reconnect them and reinstall the gauge. 

Racewerx is one of our sponsors and supplied us with their Clutch Tower Brace kits for our Etecs.  We are also a dealer for their kit so you can order them from our website.  This brace kit is a must for hard riding or racing.  Some high HP sleds have ripped the clutch tower right off the tunnel plus the tower does flex under load leading to some clutch misalignment.

This picture shows the contents of the kit for the Etec.  The Shaft is a swaged hollow tube that is really lightweight and strong. 

The picture below shows the Shock Tower brack mounted in place. 

The picture below shows the Clutch tower bracket mounted in place. 

The picture below shows the shaft connected to the shock tower brace. 

The picture below shows the shaft connected to the clutch tower bracket.  Not alot of room to work in this area since it isn’t easy to remove the driven clutch. 

The picture below shows the new vent line location.  I should have put it closer to the brace because I later found out the end of the side panel swings in this location.  I put a wire tie on the how to keep it closer to the support tube and it’s all set. 

Here is a picture of the kit fully installed. 

Just installed our Lower and Upper A-Arm Brace kits to beef up the A-Arm mounting points.  Want to make sure if we hit something that the A-Arms bend and not the mounting points so we can change an Arm and get back in the race.

The picture below shows both Engine Module braces from the front.  These braces strengthen the Upper A-Arms rear mounting points.

The picture below shows the right Engine Module brace.  This brace will keep the top of the Engine module from being bent out when you hit something with the bottom of the spindle.  A hit to the bottom of the spindle especially when turning will cause the top of the spindle to force the upper A-Arm forward bending the rear mounting point out.  This brace keeps the mount from bending out.

The picture below shows the Outside Upper A-Arm 90 degree angle brace.  This brace ties the end of the mounting bolt to the chassis for more strength. 

The picture below shows the lower A-Arm brace.  This brace strengthens the Lower A-Arm rear mounting points and ties it back into the chassis.  The cast aluminum mounting point will bend on certain impacts.  Some snowcross sleds have broken this brace off the chassis.  This brace also acts as a skid plate to protect this vulnerable area. 

Certain hits can bend your A-Arm mounting points which is very costly to fix.  These braces will greatly reduce the chance of damage to your front end. If you are interested in our XP A-Arm brace kits they can be ordered online right from our website.